NEXT winter, according to Prada, is all about red.
“I loved it,” a beaming Miuccia Prada said backstage after presenting her fall-winter 2009-2010 collection.
The designer expressed surprise at the standing ovation for the town and country collection that paired fisherman boots with chic city suits, and mingled leather, velvet and wool as if they were always meant to go together.
“Often when I like something, others find it boring,” she said with a twinkle in her eye, knowing that her show is always the most sought-after in town.
To create a more intimate atmosphere, she set up bleachers on metal scaffolding, overlooking a square runway resembling a boxing ring. Most of the fighting, however, took place in the stands as people struggled to find their seats in the dim light.
Prada’s collection of beautiful woollen coats, simple dresses and classic suits was almost always belted at the waist. Even the high leather wading boots were held up by being hooked to the belt. Martingales for coats and dresses gave another belted look.
But real innovation came in the use of red by the designer who made minimalism a Milan household word. Red sweaters, red shorts, red dresses and red eveningwear turned rigid into romantic, and even sexy.
Prada said she particularly loved the red suit with its double-breasted belted jacket with wide lapel, and slightly flared skirt.
“It’s the perfect red suit,” she said, adding it had been many years since she was inspired to make a suit.
Overall the look was young and carefree. Models sported pinned up frizzy hairstyles, and wore a healthy dose of makeup, a far cry from the pale-faced minimalist maidens usually favored by the designer.
Prada denied that she was being upbeat on purpose, as an antidote to horrid economic times.
“I did it for passion,” she said.
